Amateur Race Car Interior Preparation - Acura Integra

One of the most important factors that will make a competitive car on the circuit is the weight of the car. Typical Racing, however, which is used in the car street racing cars amateur who is changing. And change is the removal of many interior regions, which can reduce 10-15% of the weight of armored vehicle. If part of the vehicle are removed, the power free to add speed. But speed is not the only basis for internal training of race cars. In this article I will discuss the preparation of the Interior Acura Integra, which will race in the Honda Challenge 2.

Acura Integra was in SSB (stock Salon B) in the category of SCCA (Sports Car Club of America). SSB rules require that the majority of internal intact some benefits to the rack and racing seats. Honda Challenge rules allow the export of almost everything except the scoreboard. This means that all the carpets, the front passenger seat, pieces of plate and mounting brackets can be removed. HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning), an article under the dashboard can also be deleted. This adds significant weight loss.

I talked to guys who wanted to leave intact the system to keep the windows clear, but the potential for weight savings was too good and I had good success keeping the window clear with anti-fog. Sunroof well on a sports car, but it is not necessary for a race car. Sunroof can be removed to a considerable reduction in weight. The rules allow discovery were covered with metal panels.

Article deadening under the carpet can be removed to further reduce weight and to clean the inside. Even without the need to reduce weight, yet deadening material should go, because he is a danger in case of fire. Removing the deadening material can be greatly simplified by the use of dry ice. I tried in the past with minimal success, but the alternative is not viable. The idea of sitting in the car for several hours with a scraper and torch, putting themselves at potential risk of fire and toxic gas, has led me to try dry ice again.

I also tried wire wheels and chemical stripper. None of these methods were effective or faster than dry ice. The key seems to be the liberal use of dry ice over a large area and allow at least 4-5 minutes to work its magic.

I made some cardboard dams to try to keep the ice in contact with vertical surfaces around the tunnel. It seems to work well, but may not be absolutely necessary. When you hear a pop and isolation begin to crack a few times with a hammer dead should be enough to dislodge the material. Be gentle with the hammer, as the soil, probably less than 1 mm and can be easily damaged. The balance can be easily removed with a grinder with sanding or wire wheel. This process also helps to prepare the surface for paint application.